Fasten your seat belts — this is a long, photo-filled account, but well worth the read. Visiting Victoria Falls was easily one of the most memorable experiences we’ve had since arriving in Africa.
After a night in Gauteng, my fiancé and I flew to Victoria Falls. The falls are colossal: about 355 feet high, roughly twice the height of Niagara Falls, formed where the Zambezi River marks the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. David Livingstone, the first European credited with seeing the falls, named them for Queen Victoria, but the local name is Mosi-oa-Tunya — “the smoke that thunders” — which perfectly captures the experience. While Victoria Falls isn’t the tallest or longest waterfall in the world, it is the largest curtain of falling water.
Here’s a recap of our adventure.
We arrived in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe in the late afternoon after a delayed flight (note: our flights on Air Zimbabwe were delayed both ways). At the airport you must purchase a visa in cash, as Zimbabwe is using the dollar and the visa desks accept cash; there is an ATM at the airport but it dispensed large notes, so break them at a bank or change counter in town if possible. We bought double-entry visas for $45 each because we planned to visit Zambia. Expect most vendors to prefer cash — US dollars, South African rand, and Zambian kwacha are commonly accepted.
The Victoria Falls airport is tiny — we stepped right off the plane onto the tarmac. Only two international gates handle arrivals and departures, which gives the whole place a very relaxed feel.
We booked the trip through KDR Travel and Tours, who arranged a shuttle to our hotel. We stayed at the Rainbow Hotel on the Zimbabwe side — a beautiful mid-range option. There are more elaborate resorts nearby, but for our two-night stay this hotel was ideal. Here’s our room:
After check-in we relaxed at the pool bar. While South Africa is famous for its wine, we discovered a tasty regional beer, Zambezi Lager, which my fiancé loved so much he bought a t-shirt at the airport.
That first evening we had a dinner cruise on the Zambezi booked, but a delayed shuttle nearly made us miss it. The boat turned back for us — an awkward few minutes as we climbed aboard — but once seated and with a glass of wine, the embarrassment faded. The cruise offered immediate wildlife sightings: hippos surfaced nearby, and we spotted elephants later in the evening, though low light made clear photos difficult.
The sunset that night was spectacular, and temperatures stayed in the mid-80s throughout our visit. We returned to the hotel, watched some sports on TV, and went to bed early for a big day ahead.
The next morning we crossed into Zambia. After breakfast we arranged transport to the border, exited Zimbabwe, and walked across the iconic Victoria Falls Bridge. From here the view of the falls is incredible — and the bridge is popular for thrill-seekers: kayakers and bungee jumpers made our stroll all the more dramatic.
On the Zambia side we had temperature checks and obtained single-entry visas (cash, $20). Baboons roamed the border post — a reminder to keep belongings secure since they’re notorious for snatching bags.
From there we headed to the Royal Livingstone Hotel, a famous and elegant property on the Zambian side. Zebras grazed on the lawns and added to the surreal, picturesque setting.
At the dock we met a small group to visit Livingstone Island and swim in Devil’s Pool — the highlight and also the most nerve-wracking part of the trip. Our group crossed the river by boat, then walked on the island where David Livingstone first viewed the falls. The view from the island is breathtaking, with mist and vivid rainbows enhancing the scene.
We left valuables with a guide and waded out toward Devil’s Pool. The swim requires careful effort because the current is strong, but guides position you and explain exactly how to proceed. The pool forms at the edge of the falls when water levels are right, creating a natural barrier that allows you to sit in the water mere feet from the drop. It’s as thrilling and awe-inspiring as it sounds — a once-in-a-lifetime perspective of the falls.
After the swim we enjoyed a peaceful breakfast on the island and rehashed the experience with fellow travelers. On the boat ride back we spotted elephants along the riverbank — some of the most memorable wildlife moments of the trip.
Back at the Royal Livingstone we relaxed on the deck and watched playful monkeys around the grounds before taking a taxi back to the border and re-entering Zimbabwe. Be prepared for lines and some bureaucracy — you’ll need your vaccination records, including yellow fever immunization, and malaria prophylaxis is strongly recommended.
From the border we walked to Victoria Falls National Park on the Zimbabwe side. The park offers jaw-dropping views and many viewpoints that showcase different angles of the falls. Photos hardly do it justice, but they capture some of the scale and beauty.
That evening we dined at Boma, a lively restaurant experience the taxi driver recommended. The evening included traditional wraps, face painting, dancing, and a buffet featuring local dishes like warthog, maize meal, and peanut butter rice, plus traditional sorghum beer. It was touristy but delightful — a fun cultural evening and a great way to end our visit.
We had a delayed flight home but made our connecting flight thanks to a careful schedule. Overall, this trip was incredible — second only to the time my fiancé proposed in Las Vegas — and I highly recommend visiting Victoria Falls. It’s a unique destination, easy to visit both Zimbabwe and Zambia in one trip, and perfect for adding safaris and other activities to your itinerary.
Thanks for reading — this may be my longest post yet, but it captures one of our best adventures.